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Used Car Checklist: 12 Things to Check Before You Pay

Most used-car regrets come from skipping a step, not from bad luck. Work through this list in order. Steps 1 to 6 you can do from your couch, before you spend gas driving to see the car.

Before you go see it

1. Get the VIN. Ask the seller for the 17-character VIN before you make plans. A seller who will not share it, or whose VIN changes between messages, is a reason to stop.

2. Run the VIN against recalls. Enter it at nhtsa.gov/recalls. It is free and shows safety recalls that have not been repaired on that exact car. An open recall is not a deal-breaker, since dealers fix them at no charge, but it tells you how well the car was looked after.

3. Get a vehicle history report. Carfax, AutoCheck or a report from an NMVTIS-approved provider (the list is on vehiclehistory.gov) can show accident reports, title brands such as salvage or flood, odometer readings over time and number of owners. It will not catch everything: damage that was never reported will not appear.

4. Compare the price with similar cars. Look at cars of the same year, trim and mileage near you. A price far above the pack needs a reason. A price far below it needs an even better one. See our guide on judging whether a price is fair.

5. Read the listing for warning signs. "As is," vague wording, a story about why the car must sell fast, or photos that hide one side of the car are all worth a question.

6. Ask the seller the basics. How long have you owned it? Why are you selling? Any accidents or paint work? Do you have the service records? Is the title in your name, with no loan on it? Answers matter, and so does how willing the seller is to answer.

When you see the car

7. Walk around it in daylight. Look for uneven gaps between body panels, paint that does not match from panel to panel, overspray on rubber trim, rust under the doors and in the wheel wells, and tires that wear unevenly. Check the production date on the tires: tires older than about six years should be replaced even if the tread looks fine.

8. Check the VIN on the car. It is on the driver's side of the dashboard, visible through the windshield, and on a sticker in the driver's door jamb. Both should match each other, the listing and the title.

9. Look inside and under the hood. Test every button, window, light and the air conditioning. Look for a musty smell or damp carpet, which can mean flood damage. With the engine cold, look for leaks, and check the oil and coolant colors.

10. Take a real test drive. Aim for 20 to 30 minutes on city streets and a highway. Listen for clunks and whines, feel whether the car pulls to one side, and watch for warning lights when you start it. Make sure the transmission shifts smoothly with no hesitation.

Before any money moves

11. Pay for an independent inspection. Have a mechanic you chose, not the seller's friend, look the car over on a lift. It often costs around $100 to $250, and it can save you thousands. A seller who refuses an inspection is telling you something.

12. Check the paperwork. For a private sale, the name on the title should match the seller's ID, and the title should be free of an unpaid loan. Get a signed bill of sale. For a dealer sale, read every line of the contract and ask for the out-the-door price, with all fees. In the US there is no general three-day right to cancel a car purchase, so the time to be sure is before you sign.

A shortcut for the research steps

Steps 2, 4 and 5 are exactly what UsedCarVet does in about 20 seconds: enter the VIN or paste the listing and get recalls, a fair-price range from live dealer listings, red flags in the listing and questions to ask the seller. It does not replace a history report or an inspection, and it says so.

UsedCarVet gives opinions, not guarantees. It is not a vehicle history report.

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